I prefer the traditional military style of highlighting armor edges - it enhances the dimensionality of the mecha. Here are two alternative ways you can do it.
|First is with dry brushing. Dab a little cold wax and mix it with your highlight artist oil color, usually a lighter color of the base coat.|
|Wipe the brush 2-4 times on a napkin so that the brush is not loaded with paint.|
|Use a dusting motion, swipe the brush perpendicular to the edge of the piece, and paint will deposit along the edge. You want a subtle appearance, not a "look I highlighted this" edge. If you get too much paint on the armor, you can use a clean brush and jab on the offending spot. The paint will dissipate and the spot will look natural again. This is one reason why I like oil. And the other reason is you can drybrush a very long time before needing to add more paint to the brush. This saves a lot of time.|
|Partially drybrushed booster. Use a even lighter shade on high corners, and you will get a very nice finish. You can also lightly drybrush the center of the armor to get a little variation in color and regional minor fading of paint.|
|With the brutish dog I used progressively lighter pink to do the highlight.|
The other method was illustrated in Hobby Japan 04/99 issue, where 3 master modelers did build ups of the PG RX-78. It's a great issue and try to get it if you can.
This highlight method takes advantage of the colored plastic of the bandai kits. The idea is to paint the armor and apply pre/post-shading around the armor, and then using a fine-grit sand paper (600 grit), sand the paint away so that the color from the original plastic shows through. This method is very convenient, but it's also a little hard to control, and cannot be undone easily.
|I had more success with this method on my NT-1 than the Ez8. I was a little impatient on the Ez8 and tend to sand off a little too much, creating a jump in contrast that's not very subtle.|