Modifying and Detailing a Scopedog

The full build up is here.I love the Scopedog design and has modified a few 1/24 Takara kits, and I have pretty much converge on a proportion that I’m satisfied with. It’s based on the very good looking Volks 1/24 garage kit, but less exaggerated. Like the Zaku, everyone has their take on it, I’m more in favor of a hero-proportion. The diagram above shows the things I did to the Brutishdog, and the numbers below correspond to those in the diagram.

  1. Antennae have been cut off and replaced with fishing lines. Besides being more endurable, they’re also more in scale.
  2. I use the Wave updated head, but the Wave visor is very weirdly spherical. So I use the Takara Visor, with about 0.5mm cut off in the center so that it’ll fit with the new head.
  3. The camera was hollowed out, and replaced with a lens from Wave H-Eyes 2. The hollowed out is important since it gives you a sense of depth. The infra red sensor is also given the same treatment.
  4. The body is reduced about 1cm in width. That’s the maximum I can reduce without modifying the skirt area. This requires a lot of work as you also need to trim the chest armor plates and much trimming inside the cockpit, which proved to be very tedious.
  5. The upper arms were reduced 0.1-0.2mm in length, and given some detailing similar to the Volks kit.
  6. The left lower arm was reduced by 0.2-0.3mm in length, and the ecliptical parts are thinned about 0.1mm. The cyliners on top of these eclipses were sawed off, thinned and reattached.
  7. The fist was modified from Waves, which was an improvement from the old Takara undetailed fists but still somewhat ugly. I added a base junction for its thumb, and the rest of the fingers were reduced in length and bent inwards.
  8. The left arm was reduced in length, and for no apparent reason I used polycaps for the shoulder-bicep joint. The elbow junction was reworked by changing it to a different T-shaped polycap joint, so that the lower arm can be attached and detached (for painting).
  9. The groin axis was lowered by 0.5mm. This gives a sporty appearance.
  10. The keens were added some pipes for detailing.
  11. The shin’s exhaust openings were hollowed out and replaced with meshes.
  12. The ankle joints were replaced with two-level cross polycaps from Volk’s MM Unit, which gives it much great freedom of movement. Before, you could hardly pose a Scopedog!
  13. Some exhaust details added to the back of the feet.
  14. Fyana’s hands were headed and bent so that they’re within distance to hold the controller joysticks. Then they were drilled through and pins were used to attach the controller to her hands. The truncated controller tops were then reattached on the top of her hands. As you can see below, the original kit suffers from the grabbing-at-nuthin’ problem.
  15. Fishing lines were used for the wire connection between the goggles and the seat.
  16. The double-T shaped shaft used for the cockpit door was cut off, and the joint was added polycaps. Now Fyana can open the door with having it slamming back at her 🙂
  17. For a limited time Wave sold an etching sheet for detailing Scopedogs. It’s mostly used for detailing the cockpit. Unfortunately many details were obscured by various things in the cockpit. The arrows below shows the parts. I didn’t use some parts such as the seat belts. It’d be nice if I could belt up Fyana, but with her proportions it’s not easy.
  18. Wave also sell (I believe you can still get them from HLJ) decals for Scopedog Turbo Custom. There are many good ones on that sheet, including this death angel one which I used on her right shoulder

Here is the unmodified Brutish Dog on Wave’s box.

1 comment

  1. Hi, I just dropped in. WOW, you are very skilled at making modifications to the kits. I don’t have any experience with this sort of thing, but I just wanted to say you kick ass! if I had that kind of talent, I would definitely get paid to do it (so I can buy more toys). keep up the great work! and thanks for sharing it!

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