Making of Splitting of the Breast – Part 4 [Ball of Death]
|As I mentioned I started this project 2-3 years ago. At that time I bought an orange rubber ball (man it was hard to find one with the right size 🙂 ) I deflated the ball and filled the inside with Mountain in Minutes, an expanding foam railroad modelers uses, since it expands a lot. I didn’t plan ahead before I deflated the ball, it was really hard to recover the spherical shape of the ball with MiM alone.
After I restarted the project recently I got some foam on the surfae of the ball. They’re a huge hassle to remove, so I decided to mottle the surface of the ball with the foam and get a orange skin diseased look. When this pic was taken I hadn’t even started on the Eva yet.
|But the more I think about the orange skin the more it bugged me, so I decided to peel away the stupid rubber skin (which may even cause painting problems later on anyway), and to my surprise the dried MiM looks really good! Much of the surface is smooth, but there are scatter places where you have big irregular holes that kind of look like exposed innards when you look inside. Very organic… looks like a good start! I’m also planning to have the ball exploding and have meat oozing out of the ball, and what better way to do it than to inject expanding foam inside cracks and have them ooze out on their own ^o^ So I got a hack saw and started sawing up the ball.|
|The basic concept. Here I’ve gotten the form of the Eva down; before that I couldn’t start on the ball really. Just like experimental design, you have to fix one variable before changing the other, or there’ll be chaos 🙂|
|Since the next few steps will take forever, here are some pictures of Shogoki. It needs detailing such as panel lines and drybrushing, and of course the knee caps 🙂 but that’ll wait until I can affix Shogoki to the ball. It should look really cool once I drybrush the skinto reveal all those skin wrinkles. The Eva is painted with the Gunze color set, they tried scamming people by including 3 purple colors, one official color and one “detail” color which is redder, and one “night version” which is quite dark. You can get nice shading by using the official color as highlight, the detail color as base and night color as shadow.