In Five Star Stories, when the AKD army retreat from an exploding planet, Sopp lost both Lachesis and the Knight of Gold. After that he made another Knight of Gold, which is also called Patraqushe Mirage, or Knight of Gold AT, the AT I think stands for Atropos, who is the fatima for this KOG. When Sopp handed the AKD over to Uppandau, a fatima who looks like Sopp, the world turned upside down and eventually AKD is destroyed, Uppandau and the KOG AT is destroyed in the final fight to the death with the last Junchoon. The LED Dragon blew up Delta Blun and ashes to ashes.
I didn’t like Patraqushe Mirage when I saw him many moons ago, but have grown to like him very much. The exploding crown head is such a radical design and conveys some sort of evil atmosphere, and everyone who saw this design the first time may or may not like it, but they’ll sure go “what the heck???”
This rendition of KOG-AT comes from the GGI/MM series of Volks, and is about the cheapest KOG you can get out there, though I think it’s still overpriced for an injection kit. In terms of proportions it’s not the best one, but it certainly has its own I AM THE KING vibe with the buffed up shoulder and skirt armor. The best thing about this KOG is the crown, it’s huge! For the Patraqushe Mirage, the more wild the crown the better 🙂
This is a pretty good kit considering it’s one of Volks’ first injection kits. I heard horror stories about Volks’ earlier Eva injection kits but the KOG has a more mature tooling. Details are sharp, the engravings on KOG’s shoulder are crisp and you can see the angels clearly. Most of the problems are fit problems, places that needs a lot of filling includes the top of the head and the crown, the two stablizers beside the head and a few places around the forearm. The head also barely fits between the stablizers. The front of the shins has a groove, but it is not molded and you need to shave off the edge of the shin halves to make this groove. The ball that links the groin and the thighs fits very tightly, and it’s hard not to scratch paint off after assembly. The kit comes with a hook-like balancer for hand-to-hand combat, and the normal buster launcher-ready balancer (the huge rear extension).The one thing I didn’t like about the kit is that it just include a pair of hands. That’s really cheap on their part, even the Wave’s Led Mirage has quite a few variation. At least give a pair that hold the swords! The given flat hands can’t really hold the sword. The other problem is the filmsy support for the shoulders. Each shoulder is held by a very tight ball joint which isn’t a problem, but the balls on the chest are only connected together via a thin shaft, which broke when I tried to install the arms. You should strengthen the balls and lube up the polycaps before installing the shoulders. Otherwise Volks’ polycaps are of very high quality and can hold things together pretty well. The exception is the forefeet, they should’ve used a ball joint on it. The way it is installed right now, it’s pretty loose.
|BuildingThe kit went together pretty smoothly. This time I tried to speed up assembly by using super glue everywhere (which saves the puttying stage), works pretty well except super glue can’t stand shear forces well and a couple of places cracked up when I put the pieces together, yikes!
There are a few trickier spots in assembly, including the “belt” area, which doesn’t really have any anchors and you’ll have to rely on the blurry pics available to figure out how they go on the hip. Care should also be taken when cutting the polycaps for the joint between the feet and the shins; normally Volks polycaps fits way too tight, but on this particular joint, you want to have them really tight. I cut the polycaps following the diagram, but it’s clear after assmebly that my KOG have trouble balancing itself, since the caps were not tight enough.
Since the hands couldn’t hold the sword, I found a set of vinyl hands from my Tekkaman Evil kit and bend them so that they’ll hold the sword. The Tekkaman hands are slender hands and resemble the KOGs’, and they work pretty well.
Painting: I tried the gold receipe in the instruction, which is silver + clear yellow + lots of clear orange + little gold + little pearl coat. What do you think of the outcome? This receipe makes a lot of sense to me, silver is very fine grained and will give a better finish than gold, but you mix in a little gold to give brilliance to the mixture. Since your base is silver, you need a lot of clear orange to tint the mixture to a brilliant gold color. The pearl coat has very fine reflective particle and will give your finish a beautiful sheen, though you don’t want too much pearl in your mixture. The mixture is not very chrome-like, but I think it’s better this way since an extremely shiny finish will give a toy-like appearance.